A good snow blower maintenance checklist has two halves: a pre-season check in the fall (fresh fuel, oil, spark plug, shear pins, belts, scraper bar, skid shoes and tire pressure) and an end-of-season routine in spring (deal with the fuel, clean off salt, change the oil, lubricate and store the machine dry). Do both, follow your owner’s manual for intervals and specs, and most of the “won’t start on the first storm” problems never happen.
The steps below apply to most gas single-stage and two-stage machines. Your manual always takes priority over a general list, because oil type, belt routing and lubrication points vary by model.
Safety first
- Shut the engine off, wait for all moving parts to stop, and disconnect the spark plug wire before working on the auger, impeller or belts.
- Never clear a clogged chute or auger with your hands. Use the clearing tool that came with the machine, with the engine off.
- Run the engine only outdoors. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can kill in an enclosed space such as a garage, even with the door open.
- Let the engine cool before refueling or draining fuel, and work away from flames and pilot lights.
Before winter: the pre-season snow blower maintenance checklist
Engine and fuel
- Fresh fuel. Start the season with fresh gasoline of the grade and ethanol content your manual allows. Old fuel is the most common cause of hard starting.
- Engine oil. Check the level on a four-stroke engine and change it if it was not changed at the end of last season. Use the viscosity your manual lists for cold temperatures.
- Spark plug. Inspect it, check the gap against the manual, and replace it if it is fouled, cracked or worn.
- Test start. Start the machine outdoors before the first storm. If it has a plug-in electric starter, test that too, along with the recoil.
Auger, impeller and chute
- Shear pins. Two-stage machines use shear pins or bolts that break on purpose if the auger hits something solid. Check that they are intact and keep spares that match your model number in the machine’s toolbox or your garage.
- Auger and impeller. Look for bent flights, cracks or loose hardware.
- Chute and deflector. Make sure the chute rotates fully and the deflector moves freely. Lubricate where the manual specifies.
- Auger gearbox. Some models call for checking or adding gear lubricant at intervals. Follow the manual.
Drive, belts and wear parts
- Belts. Inspect the auger and drive belts for cracks, glazing or fraying. Replace worn belts before they slip in heavy snow.
- Scraper bar. This replaceable strip along the bottom of the housing takes the wear. Replace it before the housing itself starts wearing.
- Skid shoes. Adjust them for your surface: lower for gravel so the auger rides higher, higher for smooth pavement. Our gravel driveway snow blower guide explains the setup.
- Tires or tracks. Set tire pressure to the value on the sidewall or in the manual and check tracks for damage.
- Controls and cables. Make sure the auger and drive engage and disengage properly when you squeeze and release the handles.
During the season
- After each use, let the engine run a minute or two to shake off snow and dry the auger, then knock off ice so controls do not freeze.
- Check oil level every few uses and top up as needed.
- Replace a broken shear pin with the correct part only. A regular bolt can transfer the shock into the gearbox.
- Rinse off road salt when you can; it eats paint and metal.
End of season: storage steps
Fuel
Fuel left in the tank and carburetor all summer is the classic reason a snow blower will not start in December. Follow your manual. Most recommend either adding a fuel stabilizer and running the engine so treated fuel reaches the carburetor, or running the engine until it is out of fuel. Some manufacturers prefer one method over the other, so check what yours says. Dispose of old fuel according to local rules.
Engine
- Change the engine oil while the engine is warm, if your manual calls for an end-of-season change.
- Remove the spark plug if the manual recommends it, add a small amount of oil to the cylinder, pull the starter slowly a few times, and reinstall the plug.
- Clean debris from the cooling fins and engine shroud.
Machine
- Wash off salt and grime and let everything dry completely.
- Touch up chips in the paint to slow rust on the housing.
- Lubricate pivot points, the chute and any grease fittings listed in the manual.
- Note any worn parts (belts, scraper bar, shear pins, skid shoes) and order them now so they are on hand in fall.
- Store the machine covered in a dry spot, away from appliances with pilot lights.
Quick-reference checklist
| Task | Before winter | End of season |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel | Fill with fresh fuel | Stabilize and run, or run dry (per manual) |
| Engine oil | Check level, change if due | Change while warm, if recommended |
| Spark plug | Inspect, gap or replace | Fog cylinder if manual recommends |
| Shear pins | Inspect, stock spares | Note replacements needed |
| Belts | Inspect for wear | Inspect and order spares |
| Scraper bar and skid shoes | Adjust and inspect | Note wear |
| Tires or tracks | Set pressure, inspect | Inspect |
| Lubrication | Chute and pivots | All points listed in the manual |
| Cleaning | Clear cooling fins | Wash off salt, dry, touch up paint |
Find parts by model number
Belts, shear pins and scraper bars are specific to each model. Look for the model and serial number label on the machine, then use it to find parts. Ariens and Toro both offer manuals and parts lookups on their sites, ariens.com and toro.com. Popular two-stage models such as the Ariens Deluxe 24 (921045) and the Toro Power Max 824 OE (37798) show their model numbers right in the listing title, which makes this easy.
When it is time to replace
If your machine needs major engine or gearbox work, it may be worth comparing repair cost with a new blower. Browse our snow blowers category or the two-stage snow blowers section, and read our single-stage vs two-stage comparison to choose the right type.
Frequently asked questions
Should I drain the gas from my snow blower for summer?
Follow your owner’s manual. Most recommend either stabilizing the fuel and running the engine so treated fuel reaches the carburetor, or running the tank dry. Leaving untreated fuel in the machine for months often causes hard starting.
How often should I change snow blower oil?
Your manual gives the interval, usually based on hours of use plus at least once per season. Many owners change it at the end of each season so the engine sits with clean oil.
Why does my snow blower keep breaking shear pins?
Shear pins are meant to break when the auger hits something hard such as ice chunks, rocks or a newspaper. If they break often, raise the skid shoes on gravel, clear debris before the storm, and make sure you are using the correct replacement pins.
Can I store a snow blower outside?
It is best kept in a dry shed or garage. If it must stay outside, use a breathable cover and keep it off bare ground to limit rust and moisture in the fuel system.
What maintenance does a two-stage snow blower need that a single-stage does not?
Two-stage machines add shear pins, an impeller, an auger gearbox, a separate drive system and often skid shoes, so they have more points to inspect and lubricate each season.
Start with the right reference 
Plan the arrival Always confirm the exact model, part number, condition and included components on the product listing. For a compatibility question, contact TorqueHarbor before ordering.